Consumers are always looking for cleaner, more natural, and simpler cosmetic products that still have that luxurious, captivating feel and effect complicates things for formulators. Fortunately, ASSESSA, offers the Carbogreen range – a selection of natural, eco-certified thickeners for use in O/W emulsions and water-based formulations. They do not require neutralisation.
Two of the toughest challenges are finding natural thickeners and natural ingredients with a luxurious feel and ethical sourcing. Xanthan gums and waxes require testing many different combinations to get that targeted feeling and stability; while silicones easily produce that satiny touch but are unsustainable.
There are four types of Carbogreen – each variant has a specialisation but shares a commonality: the light and velvety feel upon application. The thickeners also provide great spread without the feeling of greasiness, common in many synthetic thickeners or waxes, and without the stickiness or sliminess of other natural thickeners such as gums. They can even be used in conjunction with other thickeners if you are looking for that added bit of stability or the luxurious feel.
Carbogreen E.A. (Zea Mays(Corn) Starch (and) Cyamopsis Tetragonolba (Guar) Gum (and) Sodium Carrageenan) and Carbogreen E.I. (Oryza Sativa Rice Starch (and) Cyamposis Tetragonolba (Guar) Gum (and) Algin) are skin-focused thickeners that form a liquid crystal structure in the formulation, boosting any existing emulsions, and providing viscosity with a light feel. These two variants can be used for low viscosity formulations and light emulsions. They also give a rapidly-absorbing, nourishing feeling on application.
Carbogreen E.O. (Oryza Sativa Rice Starch (and) Tapioca Starch (and) Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum (and) Algin) has the largest liquid crystal structure and provides the greatest suspension capabilities of all the variants due to its high viscosity. Used on its own or combined with one of the other more texture-focused variations, such as Carbogreen E.I., Carbogreen E.O. can provide both viscosity and a soft light feel post-application.
Carbogreen Q.B. (Zea Mays (Corn) Starch (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (and) Algin) is a hair formulation thickener. This variant is stable in a wide range of pH’s and can also handle electrolytes. It provides both viscosity and a creamy velvety feel to the hair while forming a protective layer over the strand. The benefits of Carbogreen Q.B., both structurally and sensorially, allow for the replacement of silicones and waxes in the formulation.
ASSESSA lists the various viscosities that can be obtained which is very helpful when targeting a specific end viscosity. This wide range of possible viscosities enables you to make up a wide range of products from thick and creamy preparations to light, quick absorbing serums and leave-in hair treatments.
Keeping with simplicity, the Carbogreen range is easy to use for anyone familiar with corn starch. They are easily dispersed in water, while stirring at room temperature to avoid clumping, and only need to be heated up to 80°C while stirring to achieve thickening. The stirring speed can be varied depending on the desired viscosity, but high sheer mixing is not required.
The Carbogreen range succeeds in providing both mechanical and sensorial benefits to formulations granting that luxury feel and effect with minimal input allowing for the simplification of formulations for a cleaner and simpler formulation that consumers will love.