Stable vitamin C actives for skin

We’ve seen consumers flocking to pharmacies and supplement retailers to arm themselves with vitamin C supplements against COVID-19. Why? Because vitamin C plays an important role in the body’s immune function. many vital roles in our bodies. Scurvy, a chronic disease that results from a lack of fresh fruit and vegetables, or as we know it, a deficiency of vitamin C, was first reported in 1550 BC among sailors. 

In the 18th century, after having treated patients with lemons and oranges successfully, the disease was in remission, and in 1927, after much more research, the substance (L-ascorbic acid) that is commonly found in fresh fruit and vegetables was named vitamin C. Today we know that vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant in the body and it has been shown to regenerate other antioxidants including vitamin E as well. It is also vital for the biosynthesis of collagen, an essential component of connective tissue and which plays an important role in wound healing. 

When used in skin care preparations, vitamin C neutralises free radicals and hence protect the skin from potential UV damage. It is a powerful anti-ageing active in that it enhances the synthesis of collagen and elastin production in the skin, keeping it plump and firm. As anti-ageing active, it is also known for suppressing melanin production, slowing down uneven skin tone and the formation of age spots. 

Cosmetic Ingredients currently offers the following vitamin C derivatives - some of them have additional functionalities as summarised in this table:

Ingredient

INCI name

Application

Amitose 2GA

Glyceryl Ascorbate powder

100% active Vitamin C derivative, anionic, long-term stability, suggested pH 6 - 9, good for toners

Amitose 3GA

Water (and) 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

30% active liquid vitamin C derivative, weak anionic, suggested pH 2 – 5, good for serums

Amitose 3LGA

Butylene Glycol (and) 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate

10% active liquid vitamin C derivative, weak anionic, amphiphilic, good for creams, effective anti-ageing active because of melanin suppression, ceramide synthesis, intra-cellular antioxidative effect, suggested pH 3 - 6

Amitose DGA

Water (and) Glycerine (and) Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate

Extremely stable vitamin C derivative, 50% active liquid, non-ionic, suggested pH 3 – 6, good for creams and gels.

Amitose HGA

Water (and) Glycerine (and) Hexyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

20% active liquid, non-ionic, suggested pH 3 – 6, highly effective melanin suppression for skin toning, good for toners, gels and serums.

Amitose MGA

Butylene Glycol (and) Myristyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

10% active liquid, amphiphilic, non-ionic, suggested pH 3 – 6, effective melanin suppression, good for O/W creams, anti-bacterial effect.

Boabab Pulp

Adansonia digitata pulp extract

100% super fruit, organic, rich in vitamin C and other trace elements, water-dispersible, great for DIY face masks

 

For more information on any of these actives, or speciality or claims ingredients, browse our website or contact our office.